Wissahickon Brewing Co. is branching out of East Falls later this year with a new taproom in Olde Kensington that will double as a kombucha production facility, giving the local craft brewer another specialty and a base of operations in a growing neighborhood.
The new space at 1526 N. American St. will be in the former home of Original 13 Ciderworks, which shut down in 2023 after a run of about six years. In addition to the taproom, Wissahickon Brewing Co.'s second location, will have a kitchen serving up pub fare and an upper level for private events. It's targeting a summer opening.
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Many local businesses in the craft brewing world have felt the pinch of the beer industry's contraction over the last few years. A saturated market and changing trends have led to the closures of numerous Philly area breweries, from Liquid Art to Stickman Brews, Earth Bread + Brewery, Separatist Beer Project and Moss Mill Brewing Co.
Wissahickon Brewing Co.'s Tim Gill says he's undeterred by the challenges some of his peers have faced. He believes in the power of great beer bringing people together.
"There's just no denying that fresh, hand-crafted beer just tastes better," Gill said. "The environment of drinking it where it's made is different. There are other small craft brewers that meet the same descriptors that we are, and I can't really speak to why they don't succeed or why they had their wheels come off."
U.S. Beer shipments fell to their lowest levels since 1999 last year, and while overall beer sales have declined, small and independent brewers' share of the market has grown in recent years, according to data from the Brewers Association. Gill said the worst of the industry's woes are hitting big box beer companies.
"They're not an easy comparison to what goes on in small, authentic craft beer operations like ours and others that are finding a way to continue to be successful in the Philadelphia market, at least," Gill said.
Wissahickon Brewing Co.'s first location opened in East Falls in 2017. The brewery's most popular beers include the 9% ABV Devil's Pool IPA, 6% ABV Crumble (an Oreo Cookie stout) and the 4.2% ABV Czech, Please! pilsner. The brewery also has a coffee shop, Whirleybird, and hosts private parties at the East Falls taproom.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Gill and his three sons, who help run the family business, began exploring the idea of an expansion. They looked at more than a dozen locations in the city and elsewhere, but couldn't find a space that suited what their costs and wishes. They put the idea on the back burner until they were approached about the spot in Olde Kensington.
"It was already an industrial setting, sort of an old warehouse. It had already been fit out with the right accoutrements for bathroom and bar and tap lines and drains," Gill said. "It even has a kitchen that's fully functional. We thought, this makes perfect sense. It's a no-brainer."
Gill said he's friendly with other brewers in the area including Punch Buggy Brewing Co. and Human Robot Brewing, which also has added locations in Jenkintown, Schuylkill Banks and South Philly in the past few years. Wissahickon Brewing Co. sells a number of products manufactured by local distilleries in the area as well.
"Olde Kensington forms a triangle between the excitement going on in Fishtown and all the energy in Northern Liberties," Gill said. "We feel like we're another point in the triangle. You just can't ignore all the residential development going on — that all speaks to us as a great location for walk-up customers."
The centerpiece of the new location will be the kombucha production facility. The bubbly, sweet, fermented black tea is often touted for its antioxidants and probiotics, which help maintain a healthy gut. Kombucha usually served non-alcoholic, but the brewing process can be tweaked to make alcoholic beverages, too.
Wissahickon Brewing Co. purchased the assets of local company Inspired Brews Kombucha, whose owner and head brewer will stick around to help launch operations at the new spot.
"We were a fan of the product," Gill said. "We liked the way their kombucha tasted, its packaging and such."
Gill said the upper level space on North American Street will show off the fermentation equipment used to make kombucha.
"I'm still surprised by the number of people I'll say the word kombucha to and they look at me like, 'What is that?'" Gill said. "We're going to do some education in addition to manufacturing."
One advantage of moving to a new location to build the kombucha business is that it keeps things separate from beer production. Gill said the yeasts and byproducts involved in making beer and kombucha are not compatible and can easily lead to spoilage under the same roof.
"We like to say that yeasts are the most high-maintenance friends you can have," Gill said. "You've got to really treat your yeast like a baby and make sure that it's as happy as possible to get the flavors you want for the beer that you're making."
The challenges facing the craft beer industry have sometimes been attributed to the rise of seltzers and ready-to-drink cocktails. Gill said he's been watching those industries grow, but he felt that kombucha offered a better path to getting the brewery's products in supermarkets and other stores.
"It's considered health food. It's good for you," Gill said. "We think kombucha is a product that resonates with the same crowd as craft beer and great coffee. It can be a good mixer for cocktails."
Unlike the brewery in East Falls, which is served daily by food trucks, the new location will be Gill's first venture into running a kitchen.
"Look for comfort food," Gill said. "But my wife is a nurse practitioner, and she won't let us serve nothing but French fries and tater tots. There will be fresh foods, healthy foods, vegan varieties. Things you won't feel guilty about eating and they'll pair well with the beer, cider and kombuchas we're serving."
Gill hopes the first phase of the new facility — the kombucha production, taproom and kitchen — will be ready to serve the public in the summer. The event space will open later in the year, with plans for private reservations and Eagles game viewings. At some point, Whirlybird coffee also will be brought over to the new location.
Before starting Wissahickon Brewing Co. Gill worked for the city for more than 34 years including roles in the prison system, water department and operations for Fairmount Park and Love Park. He and his sons committed fully to the brewery when they opened it in East Falls and they hope it will remain in the family for generations, despite any fluctuations that may arise in the craft beer world. He's grateful for the success the business has had so far and feels hopeful that the new location will bring a similar atmosphere to Olde Kensington.
"It's part fortunate and it's part hard work," Gill said. "I tip and salute all the companies out there — not just craft brewers — but any business that's found a way to succeed and survive," Gill said. "It's not easy."