July 19, 2024
PROVIDED IMAGE/Andrew Foss
Human Robot head brewer Andrew Foss says thick foam is 'a sign of a well-made beer.'
For the beer-making professionals, a good brew is measured by more than just taste, aroma and color.
"You don't talk to brewers and not end up talking about foam," said Andrew Foss, head brewer at Human Robot Brewery. "It's sort of a point of pride if your glass comes out with an inch-and-a-half of thick foam on it that doesn't go away for a long time. That's just a sign of a well-made beer."
At Human Robot, foam is far from an afterthought. The brewery — which started in West Kensington and now has locations in Jenkintown, East Passyunk and on the banks of the Schuylkill River in Rittenhouse — features Lukr faucets from the Czech Republic that have a ball valve with a screen. Opening the tap at 45 degrees, instead of wide open, helps build a dense, wet foam in the faucet, which Human Robot pours and serves as the Milktube.
"It's ... almost like you were doing shots, but you're not really drinking a lot of alcohol," Foss said. "It's like 3 1/2 ounces of beer, but it's all just a big tall glass of foam."
Human Robot is one of many Philly-area breweries that have become known for its lagers, and it pours three to four of that style out of these specialty faucets.
"I think years of brewing really strong, high-alcohol beers and beers with just insane amounts of hops in them have sort of pushed a lot of people who work in the industry to look for something a little less intense," Foss said about lagers, adding that "it's just a beautiful style of beer."
"I think American brewers, especially in the last five or six years, have become a lot better at brewing it. I think 20 years ago, if you could brew a lager that didn't have a bunch of off flavors in it, you were getting an award for it. But there's a lot more knowledge now."
Foss, who's a "foam fan," said the best way to drink a Czech lager is with a Šnyt pour, which is about half foam and half beer.
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"The foam that's coming out of this faucet, it's not like you're pouring a beer from sky-high and drinking a bunch of bubbles," Foss said. "It's sort of like a silky, wet foam. The faucets are designed so that when you're pouring a normal beer with them, you start the glass with some foam and then you pour the beer under the foam, and it protects the beer from oxygen in the atmosphere. And it keeps the beer nicer for longer in your glass."
Foss has been a brewer for 10 years. In 2020, Human Robot was taking over the old Saint Benjamin Brewing Co. site and the owners reached out to Foss, who had been the head brewer there for three years, because he knew the building and equipment.
"I initially came to sort of teach whoever they were going to hire, and they ended up just hiring me so it worked out great," he said.
Here's Andrew Foss's handpicked six-pack. Each beer choice is based on prompts provided by PhillyVoice, and we asked him to limit selections of Human Robot's beers. The answers have been edited for length and clarity.
Guinness, 4.2% ABV
I've never had a roast pork sandwich, but I can tell you this: Guinness goes with everything.
Czechvar, original, 5% ABV
Budweiser Budvar original (Czechvar in the U.S.) was eye-opening for me. On a trip in 2017, I was able to go to their beer hall in Prague. The beer is so subtle, with a beautiful malt character and restrained hopping. It's got just enough of everything with flavor and aroma without any added flair. Being used to American-brewed examples that focused on showcasing hops, it really made me rethink my approach to these beers in the brewhouse.
Hallertau Pils, Human Robot, 5.2% ABV
After a run on the Wissahickon, I love to take a seat on my porch with a glass of Hallertau Pils.
Helles Lager, Bright Path, 4.2% ABV
I was able to visit Bright Path Brewing (in Jim Thorpe, Pennsylvania) recently. I had enjoyed cans of their beer before, but a fresh mug of their Helles lager off of the Lukr faucet with a nice cap of wet foam was perfect.
Oktoberfest, Sierra Nevada, 6% ABV (in 2023)
I look forward to Sierra Nevada's Oktoberfest beers every year. They collaborate with a different German brewery every year, so it's never the same recipe, but they're batting 1.000.
Skald, Trouble's End, 4% ABV
I have a few cans of Skald from Trouble's End Brewing in the fridge. It's their light lager that has a lower ABV (4%) with a nice hop character from Michigan-grown Saaz hops (a Czech variety). While the hops are genetically the same as the Czech version, being grown in the U.S. gives them a little extra punch due to higher alpha acids (bitterness potential) and a more pronounced aroma.
